As winter moves through to spring, many who went a little darker or ashy for the colder months are likely to start returning to the salon, looking to brighten their colour for the summer. Lived in balayage techniques are the perfect method for these clients, as they brighten the hair in a low maintenance way, making the blonde very wearable even as it grows out through the summer months. So how do we create a summery blonde lived-in balayage?
Step 1: As always, we start with our sectioning by using our pintail comb to part the hair front the apex down both sides.
Step 2: For our formula, we use Lloreal BlondeMe 30g powder, 40g 20 vol developer and Olaplex.
Step 3: Starting with the back section first, we take our first thin slice at an angle at the hairline and weave it into babylights. It is crucial to direct the foil up towards the head for these first few foils, as this is what will be visible when the hair is tied back, and we want to ensure complete saturation of colour on this side of the hair. Repeat this process on both sides.
Step 4: After 2 foils on each side, repeat this process at the middle of the head.
Step 5: Once you have 3 foils on each side and at the middle, you can begin using the tipping out technique. This involves gathering up all of the hair that has not made it into the foil, weaving them with a standard weave, then backcombing before placing it in foil. The tipping out technique ensures that the hair is light and bright at the ends and give a beautiful added dimension to the overall colour.
Step 6: Now it's time to mix things up by switching to a chunky slice to get dimension and colour coverage throughout the hair. Work your way up the head using the chunky slice, ensuring to use the tipping out method after every 3 foils.
Step 7: Once the back is complete, we can move around to the front, applying babylights throughout the hairline and face frame.
Step 8: Continually check on how your first foils are developing, and where necessary, remove the foil and excess bleach to slow down the process.
Step 9: Once you have completed the hairline and face frame to around 3 foils deep, you can revert back to the chunky slice to complete the remaining hair, continuing with the tipping out technique throughout.
Step 10: Move your client over to the basin to start removing and rinsing your back foils as and when they are ready, and letting the front foils develop further until they are also ready to remove. As you remove the foil and the bleach, use your fingers to pull the bleach through the the lengths of the hair. Once all of the foils have been removed, you can rinse and wash your client's hair to remove any bleach residue.
Step 11: Once the hair has been washed, it's time to detangle, ready for the toner.
Step 12: For our toner application, we are using RedKen Shades EQ in 5N (7g), 7M (7g), 7NB (5g), and gloss for the roots, and 9VG and gloss for the mid-lengths and ends.
Step 13: Starting with our root toner, we divided the hair into 4 to concentrate on the roots and used a tint brush for our application. Once applied, we used a brush to pull the toner through the hair.
Step 14: Once the roots are complete, use an applicator bottle to apply to the mid-lengths and the ends and use a brush to pull through the hair for an added blend.
Step 15: Once developed, rinse thoroughly with shampoo and conditioner. Now it's time to dry and style!