Cool Ashy Blonde Tutorial

10 years ago, blonde hair came with a one size fits all approach, relying on bleach to lift the colour and expose the natural pigment underneath, however with the evolution of toners, stylists now have the freedom and flexibility to tone blonde hair to achieve a whole spectrum of creative shades, and that's exactly what we are working on with our client.

Our client has come to us with some substantial regrowth, as well as the desire to cool down her blonde to a more ashy, icy tone.

To start, we need to lift the roots so that these blend in with the rest of the colour.

Step 1: We are starting with a simple T Section, so that we can work from the bottom of the neck upwards.

Step 2: For our formula, we are using 40g of 20 vol Lloreal multi techniques developer, 30g of Lloreal multi techniques powder and olaplex.

Step 3: We begin our weaving with baby light at the hairline, taking each slice at an angle.

Step 4: Continue with your babylights as you work your way up the back of the head, making sure to only apply your product to the regrowth and leaving the already processed hair-free.

Step 5: As you work your way up the back of the head, switch to a chunky slice, in order to add more dimension to the colour.

Step 6: Continue your broken slice until you have reached the top of your section.

Step 7: Now you can move to the front of the head, starting with babylights again at the hairline, angling your foils towards the face.

Step 8: Once you have babylight foils 3-4 layers deep, at the hairline, you can work parallel to the parting, using the chunky weave method as before.

Step 9: Leave your foils to develop, check intermittently, and pay close attention to the foils that have been in place the longest.

Step 10: Once your bottom foils have developed, you can remove these from the chair whilst the rest continue to develop.

Step 11: As you remove the foils, you can use any excess bleach on the hair to pull it down the lengths of the hair, helping to brighten the older colour.

Step 12: Once all of the back foils have been removed, you can rinse the back section whilst the front foils continue to develop

Step 13: Once your front foils have developed, repeat this process by removing the foils and pulling the excess through the lengths, before rinsing, shampooing and conditioning the hair.

Step 14: Now it's time for some toner magic. Starting at the roots, we applied an equal amount of RedKen Shades EQ 06T, 07n and 07NB. We applied this to the roots using a tint brush and then pulled the colour through the hair using a hairbrush.

Step 15: As the tips of the hair are still a little warm, we are applying some more bleach at the ends to help give it a little lift.

Step 16: Rinse your toner, and then shampoo with purple shampoo.

Step 17: Now it's time to apply your toner RedKen Shades EQ 09V, 09T, 010VV in equal part to the lengths of the hair at the basin, using a brush to pull the colour through.

Step 18: Once developed, wash with Olaplex shampoo and conditioner and you are ready to style!


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