When you have a client looking to add a pop of colour to their hair, sometimes you don't need a full white lift in order to create an intense colour. Working with the natural tones in your client's hair can complement the finished look, therefore to create a pinky-peach colour for Demelza, we will be using a white dust reduced lightener, applied using a freehand technique, followed by Shrine Drop It Colour.
As with all clients, there are individual needs that need to be taken into consideration, and in Demelza's case, we need to consider that she has a slight case of scalp psoriasis. For the technique we are using today, we won't be applying products near the root, and will also be using a backcombing technique that works to form a barrier to the scalp. It is very important when you have a client with a scalp condition, that you achieve your finished look in a way that does not compromise the scalp, therefore should our client wished for a full-colour coverage, we would have suggested this as a technique in order to achieve a dramatic colour change, but avoiding the scalp.
In addition to this, we know that Demelza is also looking to add hair extensions to her finished look in the following appointment, which is why we have opted to use Shrine Drop It. Not only will this give Demelza the vivid colour she is looking for, it will also allow her to easily maintain her new colour at home, topping up regularly to retain the colour, whilst being gentle on her own hair and her hair extensions.
After brushing through Demelza’s hair to remove any tangles, the hair is sectioned into 3. We will be working on the back first, taking large slices and alternating between diagonal slices and horizontally through the middle. The reason we are sectioning in this way is so that should we need to rinse the back sections to prevent them from developing too much, we can do so without disturbing the front sections.
Product and developer
For this client, we are going to be using a white dust reduced powder with 2% developer. This is because we do not want a strong lift, and want to retain the natural warmth in Demelza’s hair to help bring out the pinky/peachy tones. We also won't be using any foil whilst we are applying the product, as foil retains heat and speeds up development, whereas we want a much slower, more controlled lift.
Take Large Slices Using a Free Hand Technique
To achieve the depth of colour Demelza is looking for, whilst also creating a soft blend, we are going to be taking large slices of hair, and will be applying our product to the top of the slice only. First, backcomb the slice to protect the scalp and create a seamless blend with the natural colour. Then, take your slice and hold it with tension, to ensure you have a flat surface and aren’t saturating the section all the way through. Once you have painted halfway down your section, you should be able to lift the hair up to reveal that the bottom is still dry and free of product. Lay your slice onto a balayage board, and now paint the middle to tips, fully saturating with the product. This will give a subtle blend through the middle, and then a vivid pop of colour at the ends.
Once you have completed the back, follow the same steps on the front sections, applying the product slightly higher around the face in order to frame the face and create a more dramatic finished look. Use foil to protect the skin and eyes around the face whilst the hair is developing.
Once the hair has lifted to where you would like it, rinse the hair with shampoo and conditioner, before brushing through to remove any tangles.
Now it’s time to add our pop of colour. Demelza was looking for a pinky/peach colour, so we added 22 drops of Pink Shrine Drop It to the conditioner. Using a tint brush, apply the colour of the hair in sections, working slowly from the bottom, working your way up and ensuring you have achieved full saturation of the hair.
Leave the product on for a further 30 minutes, before rinsing with shampoo and conditioner, and style to finish.